The trailer for “The Many Saints of Newark” features the song “Money” by The Flying Lizards. One lyric poignantly captures the thematic heart of the prequel to the sprawling television series about mob boss Tony Soprano: “Money don’t get everything / It’s true / What it don’t get / I can’t use.” It also reflects...
Art & Style
What Was Really the Secret Behind Van Gogh’s Success?
Before developing his famed “drip technique,” abstract artist Jackson Pollock dabbled in drawing, print making and surrealist paintings of humans, animals and nature. According to a new study from Kellogg School of Management at Northwestern University, this period of exploration followed by exploitation of his new drip technique set up Pollock for a “hot streak,” or...
The Enduring Rise of Chrome Hearts is an Exercise in Amassing and Policing Branding
Over three decades after its founding, Chrome Hearts is in the midst of a surge in popularity. Last year, men’s fashion and streetwear marketplace Grailed put Chrome Hearts in the number 10 spot on its annual “Best Brands” list, a nod to the fact that the Los Angeles-based brand – which Grailed says is difficult to acquire due to...
A Running Timeline of Fashion and Luxury Mergers, Acquisitions & Investments
In November, a $1.15 billion deal came to light, bringing together Cartier’s parent company Richemont, Chinese e-commerce titan Alibaba, and fashion retail platform Farfetch. The headline-making transaction followed from reports that a “mega deal” was in the making. In addition to proving noteworthy because it brought together three very big names in the fashion sphere...
As Brands Adopt New Bangladesh Accord, a Look at How Disputes Are Handled by the Legally-Binding Pact
An updated version of the Bangladesh Accord will get a two-year term, following months-long back-and-forth between international brands and retailers, and local trade unions, in furtherance of the aim of “working towards a safe and healthy garment and textile industry in Bangladesh.” Primarily governing factories producing Ready-Made Garments, such as those used by H&M and Zara’s...
The Potential Downside of Design Competitions? The Risk of Rip-Offs
Chinese fast fashion giant Shein is making headlines this week after revealing that it is debuting a design contest of its own, one that will see emerging designers compete before a panel of judges, including Khloé Kardashian, designer Christian Siriano, former J. Crew creative director Jenna Lyons, stylist Law Roach and InStyle director Laurel Pantin, in order for...
New Algorithm for Modern Quilting
Stanford University computer science graduate student Mackenzie Leake has been quilting since age 10, but she never imagined the craft would be the focus of her doctoral dissertation. Included in that work is new prototype software that can facilitate pattern-making for a form of quilting called foundation paper piecing, which involves using a backing made...
Technique Inspired by Lace Making Could Someday Weave Structures in Space
Lauren Dreier was paging through a 19th century book by the German architect Gottfried Semper when she spotted some intriguing patterns inspired by lace. A professional artist and designer who often incorporates technology into her work, Dreier, who is also a doctoral student at the School of Architecture at Princeton University, decided to recreate the...
Women ‘Risk’ Grey Hair to Feel Authentic
Many women “risk” allowing natural grey hair to show in order to feel authentic, a new study shows. Researchers from the University of Exeter surveyed women who chose not to dye their grey hair, and found a “conflict” between looking natural and being seen as competent. Participants in the study – mostly from English-speaking countries...
Independent Music Squashed Out of Streaming Playlists and Revenue
Bands and artists on independent record labels get less than their fair share of access to the most popular playlists on streaming platforms such as Spotify – argues a new paper from the University of East Anglia. The paper looks at whether streaming platforms offer a level playing field for artists and record labels. It finds...